Saturday, October 26, 2013

Wolf, Gemmill Lane



Fergus Henderson inspired nose to tail dining has finally made its presence in our shores. The very first proclaimed of such, is Wolf (18 Gemmill Lane, tel : +65 6557 2224) by the Privé Group. Just right across the road from Club Street Social.


While exotic for some, the experience of dining with offal and other innards is an age old concept. It's just been made a little hip in recent years. Definitely not new here in Asia.



The public philosophy behind what they create is respecting the ingredient (animal that died for your plate) and letting nothing go to waste. I'm curious at the the level of commitment that the restaurant has made, backing that philosophy. Didn't think we saw much ingredients beyond what already can be found elsewhere. I'm sure there are many other parts we could have served as food and that hearts and livers and sweetbreads and skin aren't the only things that maketh the beast.

some crispy fried pig skin

Some fried pig skin to start. Tastes like chicharron, sans the vinegar on the side. 

 grilled beef hearts
haricots verts, green grapes, 
walnuts, stout dressing

And then some medium rare hearts of cow. There was only probably 2 grapes in there. I don't think grapes cost so much. But the hearts were pretty good and grilled with little distraction but salt and pepper.


 pig’s head & trotter brawn
herb salad, crusty bread 

We were informed that this was best eaten fast as the gelatin would still hold from the cold. We personally though that the head cheese became a little more flavoursome once it has gotten a little less cold. Who really cares if the gelatin holds eh? If anyone's wondering, this is terrine made of chunks of meat from pig's head and trotter set in aspic. It tastes a little porky and we liked it.


grilled ox tongue 
salsa verde, puy lentil salad

Grilled ox tongue was delicious. So was the bed of lentils and the mint and garlic salsa verde that they used.


sweetbreads & mushroom risotto

The fried sweetbread really reminded me of fried fish roe. I thought it was delicious. The portions of the sweetbread was however, a little too little. Risotto with trumpet mushrooms was pretty okay, very nicely timed and not mind blowing. But it was quite addictive.

a side of  braised savoy cabbage,
house-cured smoked bacon

This is probably one of the better applications of savoy cabbage I've had. In a really long time. Umami and lightly smokey. I'm going to order this again the next time.

rhubarb trifle

Not bad. This trifle is actually much better than the one at Lawry's which was too much tart and cake with too little cream. There was more cream to fruit ratio in there and it even tasted good with pepper. 



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