Esquina, Jiak Chuan Road

Word from the ether is that this lot in the corner (16 Jiak Chuan Road, tel : +65 6222 1616) is run by a Jason Atherton with an El Bulli pedigree hued with some Michelin starred Ramsey and whose fame stretched from Pollen Street Social in London to Table No. 1 in Shanghai and then down further south to the recent Pollen at Gardens by the Bay. The name itself, has sent up bars of branding which was subconsciously raised even before I stepped in. Even though I know nothing about the man nor his other restaurants.

Even though he probably doesn't cook here and probably has little oversight on what happens on a micro daily basis behind his open counter kitchen.

oysters, Vietnamese dressing

The oysters in Vietnamese dressing were....well, oysters with some tangy dressing with a light citrus punch and fish sauce. The briny shellfish weren't as chilled as I was expecting but I suppose they tasted fine. Just what one generally expects of oysters.

salt & pepper squid, black ink aioli

What I liked about this was the use of thinly sliced green chillis with the fried squid. Never had them this way before and I think it's a level of compliment which is seldom explored. Unfortunately, the squid ink aioli tasted just like a regular aioli. Garlic, olive oil and whatever. Nada of that squid ink which in the end was just only visuals. As competently done as they are, I can't think that these were the best fried squids out there.

smoked haddock, omelette and Manchego cheese

This was a dish that was probably hard to go wrong. Straightforward as cooking eggs, throwing torn up chunks of fish and cheese and then sprinkling bits of chopped spring onions and paprika. Perhaps even I can do it. That being said, the flavours were expectedly comforting with a smokiness from the fish infused with bits of cheesiness within what tasted more like scrambled eggs.

veal sweet meat and foie gras empanada with burnt onion and caper jam

This empanada dish came across as refined. Foie gras was delicious - had a thin and light crisp on the exterior while the innards were a little pink, tender and richly flavoured. There seemed to be a sweet and salty combination on the upper crust which I thought it was pretty good. The empanada in its refinement had a light and soft crust which was really nothing like the traditional street food puff. Onion jam was good.

wild berry and sangria ice cream

Not bad. Not amazing either.

chocolate mousse, olive oil jelly, coffee soil espresso drizzle I think...

This was the first item that I felt was truly outstanding. It had gotten till the last item before deep impressions were set. The chocolate mouse was rich, smooth and creamy and I liked the bitter aroma in them.

The olive oil jelly was mind blowing in a simple way I hadn't quite anticipated. Textually, it reminded me of a very soft pak tong ko (white sugar cake). They were redolent of the fruity aromas of the oil and was seeped in a moderated level of sweetness that wasn't excessive or too little.

Coffee soil tasted like crushed coffee biscuits. Not impressionably awesome like what I've had once but I guess they served their purpose well as contrast for the entire dessert. I would order this again. Yeap, I endorse this!

I think we like Lolla much better than here.