Trattoria Sostanza, Via della Porcellana, Florence

We had almost gotten ourselves lost looking for Trattoria Sostanza (Via della Porcellana 25R, Florence, tel :  + 39 055 212691) but for the kindness of a Japanese dude whom was kind enough to show us the way. In the end, the location turned out to be not too far of a walk from the hotel that we were staying in.

This trattoria was one of those serving straight forward home styled cooking without frills where one finds locals rubbing shoulders with tourists.  Their specialty I've heard was their bistecca alla fiorentina, an out of this world petti di pollo al burro (butter chicken!) and their tortino di carciofi. Since we've just had steak just the day before, we gave that a pass and gave the other items a chance to find a home in our bellies.

To be honest, most of the bread we've had in Italy were dull, airy and crusty stuff on the verge of being made into breadcrumbs. Sostanza's ciabatta was actually pretty good in spite of it's innocuous (or mundane) appearance.

There was something amazing about Tuscan chopped liver costinis that made us marvel at the magic of their taste. It was their brand of fragrance and savoury flavors, clocked in at the right quantities.

Their pasta was very decent, not experimental in any sense at all and served with a hearty ragu.

The highlight was their butter chicken. Imagine a buttery pastry with the texture of tender pan fried chicken. That was really how it was with the fillets fried in a generous pool of butter. There was enough of those charred bits and melted butter to dip each bite of the chicken and then mop up with the ciabatta they gave.

I imagine that one should at least order and try this to have considered visited Trattoria Sostanza.

Their artichoke omelette was also no slouch. It came out as a large tart of light airy eggs with soft chunks of the artichoke hearts embedded within, drenched in olive oil. This would have made an awesome breakfast dish.

As stuffed as we were, we managed their fruit and cream meringue cake thing for dessert. A second time where I was proven that meringue can be not overly sweet and taste pretty good. With the generosity of the cream in the equation, the crumbly meringue, the bits of airy cake along with the cold berries and chocolate crumbles were a party of textures.

Panino con lampredotto

Lampredotto comes, from the fourth stomach of the cow. Like tripe is considered offal and once food for the poor. Today they are a legacy from the cuisine of yesteryears and also considered a delicacy of sorts. At least for me they are.

Boiled in a vegetable and herb broth till they were tender, the lampredotto was then sliced up and subsequently forked onto a hollowed out loaf. With little but salt and pepper and some salsa verde, the sandwich was made. And it was delicious.

I was told that these were pretty common in Florence, but had never happened across them along the streets until tipped of by a certain gentleman to search for the square with the statue of the little pig which was also incidentally a fountain. Actually a boar rather than a little pig. Where people spent a coin and hoped for a return to Florence.

Where else can I find more of these sandwiches?

Fontana del porcellino

All'Antico Ristoro di Cambi, Via Sant'Onofrio, Florence

It was fortunate for us that this restaurant (Via Sant'Onofrio 1r, Florence, tel : +39 055 217134) was but a 10 minute stroll from our hotel in the quiet neighbourhood south of the Arno. We were rushing back from conquering the leaning bell tower of Pisa that wasn't very forgiving on our knees and tried to still be on time for our table.

This was an exciting dinner since we would be having a real bistecca alla fiorentina where the meat was from the pasture fed Chianina cow. The restaurant exuded charm of a brick lined eating establishment where legs of prosciutto and wreaths of garlic were hanging high on beams and bottles of wine littered almost every platform.

We started it off with their crostini Toscani which was filled with one of the most delicious and savory chopped chicken liver on bread I've had. Can you imagine being charmed by chopped chicken liver?

The first plate we had taglierini Gorgonzola e asparagi. This was a pretty damn good pasta at the for a reasonable €8. What surprised me was that both the Gorgonzola and the asparagus both shared equal intensity in flavour that was nicely accented by the chopped parsley. Texture of the noodles was unsurprisingly springy and lively.

The anticipation was as mentioned, their boned in porterhouse bistecca, Florentine styled. Flavouring was what the char, an exceptionally fruity olive oil and coarse salt crystals imparted. The meat was rare to medium rare on the inside, juicy but was pretty lean in some parts. The charred bits of fat on the exterior were amazingly fragrant though. 

While mythical descriptions of the steak remain, the part about them being fork tender was unfounded. While it was tender, it was certainly not fork tender.

Dessert was a eggless black and white chocolate cake that we managed to scarf down even though we were pretty stuffed from all the food. Testimony to the fact that it was freshly prepared, served hot and pretty well made.

I' Cche' c'e' c'e', Via Magalotti, Florence

I had yoghurt and Nutella gelato and I liked it

That would be the top gob on the cone. While the flavour wasn't exotic, it was a pairing that had not occurred to me before and the combination was surprisingly addictive. If anyone's interested, the shop is located at the south side of Ponte alla Carraia. One can see it right by the end of the bridge.

Il Santo Bevitore, Via Santo Spirito, Florence

This place (Via Santo Spirito 66R, Florence, tel : +39 055 211264) had been one of the recommended places that we had kept out of mind for some reason. We stumbled upon it by chance one afternoon. It was already getting late and we had found ourselves then at the Oltrarno side of River Arnos, about half the distance between two bridges away from Via Santo Spirito. And we managed to get ourselves a seat shortly before the kitchen closed for after lunch hours.

The service here was excellent with their polite staff doing their best to be attentive in a bustling crowd with poor acoustics. They also seemed very knowledgeable with what the restaurant was serving.

Their pasta were very well done. Like their fresh made maccheroncetti served with a ragout of rabbit. The al dente pasta had an excellent springy texture that was doused in a umami rich broth from the rabbit stew, accompanied by generous portions of minced rabbit. All in all, professionally accented by rosemary. I said professionally because, they made work where most people generally failed at using rosemary by not knowing when was too much.

A lunch special pasta of the week was a paccheri with some ragout of baby octopus. Less heavy in flavour than the rabbit pasta, but with identifiable seafood accent from the fresh tasting cephalopod that was both tender and still had sufficient bite. The thick columns of pasta were also nicely timed in the pot.

The off sequence item was their cold cut platter. The order was processed later as the wait staff was trying to rush the pasta orders to the kitchen before they were ready to close up. This wound up being the last to get processed and was served after the pasta were. No big deal really. The selection of cheese that they had, included some nice Percorino al tartufo and a crumbly salty cheese from Sardinia that tasted very similarly to Parmigiano Reggiano accompanied by a fruit & mustard jam.

We liked it so much that we made a reservation for a dinner the next day!