Tuesday, November 20, 2012

A panini alla porchetta al tartufo?

San Miniato, porchetta truffle sandwich

San Miniato is a town in the province of Pisa - a region in Tuscany. One can find out more about them from Wiki.

The reason we visited was because of the truffle fair that they hold in November. Motivation enough for a couple of hours drive out of Florence up a medieval town on the top of a little hill I guess. Anyways, here's a truffle infused pork sandwich gotten from the fair. There were several stalls hawking huge hunks of the porchetta al tartufo that were ready to be sliced and put in between bread on order.

San Miniato, salumi

No mention will be made from which stall in particular.  We couldn't tell. We just grabbled one (costed €7 each!) for the novelty and ate under the taupe shelter from the persistent rain that had been falling all day. The bread was cold and the crust very chewy. It would have benefitted from a toast. I thought the porchetta needed a bit more salt to bring out the flavour of both the pork and the truffle. Is there a particular stall that does them better than the others?

San Miniato, porchetta stall

Sunday, November 18, 2012

I' Cche' c'e' c'e', Via Magalotti, Florence

Florence, I' Cche' c'e' c'e', prosciutto polenta

Florence, I' Cche' c'e' c'e', spaghetti vongole

Florence, I' Cche' c'e' c'e', tagliatelle

Florence, I' Cche' c'e' c'e', trippa

Florence, I' Cche' c'e' c'e', tiramisu

I' Cche' c'e' c'e', Via Magalotti, Florence

I had yoghurt and Nutella gelato and I liked it

Florence, La Carraia Gelateria, yoghurt nutella gelato

That would be the top gob on the cone. While the flavour wasn't exotic, it was a pairing that had not occurred to me before and the combination was surprisingly addictive. If anyone's interested, the shop is located at the south side of Ponte alla Carraia. One can see it right by the end of the bridge.

Florence, La Carraia Gelateria

Friday, November 16, 2012

Il Santo Bevitore, Via Santo Spirito, Florence

Florence, Il Santo Bevitore, bread

This place (Via Santo Spirito 66R, Florence, tel : +39 055 211264) had been one of the recommended places that we had kept out of mind for some reason. We stumbled upon it by chance one afternoon. It was already getting late and we had found ourselves then at the Oltrarno side of River Arnos, about half the distance between two bridges away from Via Santo Spirito. And we managed to get ourselves a seat shortly before the kitchen closed for after lunch hours.

The service here was excellent with their polite staff doing their best to be attentive in a bustling crowd with poor acoustics. They also seemed very knowledgeable with what the restaurant was serving.

Florence, Il Santo Bevitore, maccheroncetti rabbit ragu

Their pasta were very well done. Like their fresh made maccheroncetti served with a ragout of rabbit. The al dente pasta had an excellent springy texture that was doused in a umami rich broth from the rabbit stew, accompanied by generous portions of minced rabbit. All in all, professionally accented by rosemary. I said professionally because, they made work where most people generally failed at using rosemary by not knowing when was too much.

Florence, Il Santo Bevitore, paccheri baby octopus ragu

A lunch special pasta of the week was a paccheri with some ragout of baby octopus. Less heavy in flavour than the rabbit pasta, but with identifiable seafood accent from the fresh tasting cephalopod that was both tender and still had sufficient bite. The thick columns of pasta were also nicely timed in the pot.

Florence, Il Santo Bevitore, salumi cheese

The off sequence item was their cold cut platter. The order was processed later as the wait staff was trying to rush the pasta orders to the kitchen before they were ready to close up. This wound up being the last to get processed and was served after the pasta were. No big deal really. The selection of cheese that they had, included some nice Percorino al tartufo and a crumbly salty cheese from Sardinia that tasted very similarly to Parmigiano Reggiano accompanied by a fruit & mustard jam.

Il Santo Bevitore, Via Santo Spirito, Florence

We liked it so much that we made a reservation for a dinner the next day!

Pizzarium, Via della Meloria, Rome

Rome, Pizzarium, pizza al taglio

The Guardian once headlined the owner of this renown shop (via della Meloria 43, Rome, tel : +39 06 3974 5416), Gabriele Bonci, as the 'Michelangelo of pizza' for the "experimental artistry" of local artisanal produce that is creatively used for the toppings of their pizza al taglio. That was in a follow up after US Vogue had done the same. In an episode of The Layover for Rome, he made a ham and pineapple topping with spicy sautéed onions and peppers for Anthony Bourdain.

Media and celebrity brushes aside, Pizzarium makes delicious pizza with interesting toppings. From what I had understood, the toppings choices change depending on the time of the year and sometimes, the hour of the day. So one is likely to get different options depending on when the visit was made. I read that Bonci has done over 1500 different types of pizza in a year.

Rome, Pizzarium, pizza al taglio
prosciutto and wilted spinach, sliced beef and broccoli

The essence for the pizzas beside the variety of toppings was of course, the crust. The thicker than usual crust of rested dough from Pizzarium were crispy on the edges, airy and chewy at the same time. Greasy as well from the generous use of olive oil and perhaps some melted fat from the toppings that were used. Cut out with scissors from the main pie according to your preference of portions.

Rome, Pizzarium, pizza al taglio
airy pockets of the crust

Of the toppings that we managed to try in this first visit, the best tasting one was the one with sliced beef and chopped broccoli. Boiled and chopped up bits of tender broccoli blanketed by thinly sliced beef on a bianca base.

Rome, Pizzarium, pizza al taglio
anchovy and some wilted green, margherita with gobs of thick chewy mozza

I like their margherita for the quantity and arrangement of the mozzarella. The chewy gobs of cheese was satisfying in both the milky flavours and texture. No where else had I seen such thick twists of the cheese on pizza.

Rome, Pizzarium, Bonci

Place was pretty small. One eats in whichever small corner that can be found in the establishment or at the counter just outside the shop.

Rome, Pizzarium

Pizzarium was a little bit pricey for a pizza lunch. If you're wondering if I felt it was worth it...well, I suppose I would love to re-visit if I ever get to come back to Rome.

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Pasticceria Dagnino, Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, Rome

Rome, Pasticceria Dagnino, cornetto arancini

Here's to grabbing a bite in the morning, pretending to be Romans with a cornetto and a cappucino down at Pasticceria Dagnino (Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 75 (Galleria Esedra), Rome, tel : + 39 06 4818660 ) which was fortunately located very close to our hotel. This pasticceria emitted an old school charm that attracted me to it.

Rome, Pasticceria Dagnino, cornetto

A cornetto as I have learnt recently was basically a sweet pastry or confectionery that many people here grab in the morning as breakfast. It is usually a something filled with cream/custard/chocolate and often had over the counter with a caffeine of choice or also sometimes on the go. Rushing through a non leisurely breakfast on the way to work is a universal thing in all cities. But not for me today.

Rome, Pasticceria Dagnino, arancini

Aside from the nice custard cream filled croissant, we also balanced the sweet of our leisurely breakfast with some savoury arancini. Our deep fried rice balls of choice today were filled with diced ham and cheese. I liked the strength in the flavor of ham in this.

Rome, Pasticceria Dagnino