The Guardian once headlined the owner of this renown shop (via della Meloria 43, Rome, tel : +39 06 3974 5416), Gabriele Bonci, as the 'Michelangelo of pizza' for the "experimental artistry" of local artisanal produce that is creatively used for the toppings of their pizza al taglio. That was in a follow up after US Vogue had done the same. In an episode of The Layover for Rome, he made a ham and pineapple topping with spicy sautéed onions and peppers for Anthony Bourdain.
Media and celebrity brushes aside, Pizzarium makes delicious pizza with interesting toppings. From what I had understood, the toppings choices change depending on the time of the year and sometimes, the hour of the day. So one is likely to get different options depending on when the visit was made. I read that Bonci has done over 1500 different types of pizza in a year.
prosciutto and wilted spinach, sliced beef and broccoli
The essence for the pizzas beside the variety of toppings was of course, the crust. The thicker than usual crust of rested dough from Pizzarium were crispy on the edges, airy and chewy at the same time. Greasy as well from the generous use of olive oil and perhaps some melted fat from the toppings that were used. Cut out with scissors from the main pie according to your preference of portions.
airy pockets of the crust
Of the toppings that we managed to try in this first visit, the best tasting one was the one with sliced beef and chopped broccoli. Boiled and chopped up bits of tender broccoli blanketed by thinly sliced beef on a bianca base.
anchovy and some wilted green, margherita with gobs of thick chewy mozza
I like their margherita for the quantity and arrangement of the mozzarella. The chewy gobs of cheese was satisfying in both the milky flavours and texture. No where else had I seen such thick twists of the cheese on pizza.
Place was pretty small. One eats in whichever small corner that can be found in the establishment or at the counter just outside the shop.
Pizzarium was a little bit pricey for a pizza lunch. If you're wondering
if I felt it was worth it...well, I suppose I would love to re-visit if I ever get to come back to Rome.
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