Not the first time I have had this at Ah Chew, but definitely a first time I'm having it with durian. I'm not sure how they had meant for this to be eaten. In the end, we didn't break up that ice cream scoop sized ball of packed durian flesh and simply tore chunks out of it as we drank the soup. You know what? It was quite good. The durian that is. I think it's D24, but I cannot be sure. It was also more durian that I had been expecting. The green been soup and seaweed were really just like how it was when we first had them.
Authenticity seems more a matter of ranges and limitations than of outright prescriptions. - Jeffrey Steingarten, The Man Who Ate Everything
Sunday, November 24, 2013
A green bean soup with seaweed and durian from Ah Chew
Friday, November 22, 2013
Bario's charshu don and Tonkotsu Itto
I had been wondering about the charshu don from Bario for a while after seeing them on the menu. I had been thinking that it looked like it might be good. Now that I've finally had ordered it, it seemed the real thing looks better than it does on menu; and I think I've found my second favourite charshu don.
It was three thick slices of their caramelized charshu over a bowl of rice, drizzled with their soy based sweet and savoury sauce and then aburi-ed. I suspect there's more, but I don't know what else they had done. The prep time took a while and the bowl itself was "please keep your fingers off" hot.
The result was a charred teriyaki-ish aroma with tender meat and fats which dissolved after you've popped them in your mouth. I'm definitely coming back for this one again. Smoky, sweet and savory.
Tonkotsu Itto rotated in just as the current reigning champion for the past 2 years, Ikkousha had moved out of the arena in the very same shop. To digress, Ikkousha is actually finally setting up shop at Tg Pagar and set to open in less than two weeks. They seem to be offering a bunch of red and black and white flavors that a number of other ramen shops are doing that they didn't do in their original shop at Ramen Champion.
Back to Itto, I think I enjoyed their bowl of ramen and wouldn't mind having them again if I were in vicinity, but there was definitely something about Ikkousha and their broth that I felt was ahead.
What Tonkotsu Itto had on menu that was a little different was their lobster tonkotsu which was essentially a regular bowl with a slice of charshu plus a splash of thickened lobster stock on the side. After finishing the noodles, the taste of the broth did remind of a lobster bisque of sorts. Albeit one that was a little more porcine than crustacean.
Digested Pages :
japanese,
ramenation
Thursday, November 21, 2013
Ramen Keisuke Gyoza King, Orchid Hotel
The third of three Kings along Tanjong Pagar by Keisuke Takeda has opened its doors sometime last week and this third, was unexpectedly the Gyoza King (#01-15 Orchid Hotel, 1 Tras Link, tel : +65 6804 6674). I wouldn't say that I'm that big on gyozas as I generally prefer their Chinese counterpart, still I was intrigued enough to give it a go.
So, it's basically a counter seating joint with gyozas on a la carte or with sets - teishouku styled served with Koshihikari rice for the latter where you can pick your stuffings of choice between tori, buta or ebi and choose a couple of sides to go along.
I honestly didn't come here expecting myself to be blown away by gyozas, but I couldn't deny enjoying the meal. It was almost like eating at Ootoya. The sides were delicious and the gyoza was not bad by my yardstick. I prefer the shrimp over the pork stuffing. I think this place nailed the frills free comfort food concept right on the head. Hey, their green tea Cola doesn't taste of green tea at all.
Digested Pages :
japanese
Tuesday, November 19, 2013
Bomba Paella Bar, Martin Road
The Spanish culinary conquistadors which have been making quite a bit of inroads on this sun blasted island in the past few years and have yet to show signs of abatement. A handful have gotten their flags planted firmly still going strong, some have collaborated with the Italians and others have failed to gain ground after a while. Bomba Paella Bar (38 Martin Road, tel : +65 6509 1680) opened their doors slightly over a year ago. I'm not about to venture a guess on which category they belong to but here's a look at what they've got.
The name of the place mentions paella bar, but it's just another Spanish joint serving limited varieties of tapas - some of a forward thinking nature and of course, a few options for paella. The latter were pretty pricey for their portions.
First up was their fried ibérico ham croquetta.
Creamy and milky tasting ball of mashed potato flavoured with bits of jamon ibérico. This was quite nice.
Then came the Manzanilla olives with pork crackling. The pieces of crackling were still popping lightly when it was served and they weren't salted. What worked was the piquant olives which lasted as nibbles for the entire meal.
Bomba's Galician styled octopus served on a bed crushed potatoes and capers was actually pretty good. Slow cooked in water before hitting the flat top grill, the meat was rather tender but didn't score so much with the char from the grill. As disposed I am towards it, I've had better octopus.
Deep fried baby squids had a bit of heat that kept it from being monotonous. Was well fried but was ultimately just fried squids.
The tastiest part of these courgette flower stuffed with mackerel and shrimps was the courgette stem itself. The stuffings were creamy and all that cream pretty much left the bits of seafood quite unidentifiable.
Paella here is pricey. So it was a good thing that we were here on a Monday evening which is Paella Night for Bomba. All paella were going at 50% off the menu prices. This small portion which was good for one with healthy appetite was $45. Pretty sure I wouldn't come for paella here on any other days.
Back to the rice, the arroz negro was rich and creamy and flavoured with squid ink....and a little bit more wet than I had been expecting. The bits of squid and black mushrooms inside were finely minced....and thus lost in the textures of the rice.
There was a ribeye with piquillo peppers and bleu cheese. The meat was well greased but I wasn't sure if it's all from the fat of the ribeye. The char was minimal and the texture wasn't so firm. The restaurant also thought that we would be fine cutting it with butter knife as they had never even bothered getting us sharper tools until we requested. Don't know what was the blue cheese that they used but it was more salty than pungent. Not my kind of beef.
First dessert was their bitter chocolate ice cream, sour dough bread and salted olive oil. It is said that a picture paints a thousand words. Sometimes, a thousand words aren't enough so I'll add a few more here.
The ice cream was light on the sugar which was a good thing for me, allowing the bitter to come through. The sour dough bread crisps were actually sugar glazed. Together and paired with the olive oil made it unusual but not un-enjoyable. What impressed me was the base, if I may call it chocolate soil, that was perfumed gently by rosemary. Not overwhelming with rosemary is something that I think a lot of cooks fail to master.
The chocolate and olive oil pairing reminded me of the mousse at Esquina.
And then, a rice pudding with caramelised apple and Spanish brandy. Don't know what's that Spanish brandy but I couldn't taste it. The creamy cinnamon scented rice was delicious and the toasted almond shavings were a nice touch.
Digested Pages :
dessert,
from Davey Jones' locker,
mediterranean,
spanish,
steak
Saturday, November 16, 2013
Raj Restaurant, Syed Alwi Road
We were first introduced to Raj (76 Syed Alwi Rd, tel : + 65 6297 1716) some years ago by a couple of friends which left favourable impression of this restaurant from Calcutta. This visit felt different. I recalled it being a little upmarket then and it didn't quite feel that way today. Maybe the place just feels different at night compared to the day.
By the way, I didn't like their sweet lassi. It was way too sweet and much too viscous. The sugar bothered me more though and there are much better ones around.
dahi gol gappa
Back in that first visit, was also my first experience with dahi golgappa and I thought they rocked. We order a portion of those dahi filled puri shells to start off and it was as I remembered them. There was a creamy sour from the yoghurt, tart sweetness from the tamarind chutney, heat from something I couldn't quite identify, spice from the potatoes and loads of texture from the creamy curd and puri shells, nuts, potato bits and sev. Party in the mouth as some people would call it. I didn't even mind the coriander juice thing that they added. Was really glad that there were none of the leaves in there.
paneer briyani
Never had a paneer briyani before, so this was a first. It did turn up like how I imagined it. The flavour of the spices in basmati rice was...... hmmm, rather engaging. In short, I liked it and it paired up excellently with their jeera (cumin) scented raita on the side. The paneer came in little cubes in the rice.
baingan korma
This was a korma-ed eggplant. I'm not sure what went into the making of the korma, but it was rich, creamy and nutty with measures of sweetness, heat and spice. Served piping hot. Nice.
rava dosai with onion and cheese
Rava dosai is dosai made with semolina flour. Many Indian restaurants that use cheese outside of paneer usually use mozzarella cheese. Raj uses Cheddar. Which ups the flavour game for everyone in my opinion since the distinctively sharper aroma and salt works with their fermented rice flour pancakes. The exterior of their dosai were enjoyably crisp. What caught me by surprise though, a pleasant surprise albeit, was that there were toasted peppercorns in them. Much to my relieve as well, I couldn't taste the coriander that were embedded in the flour.
Those peppercorns were remarkable bits of flavour in the dosai. Good stuff.
Digested Pages :
indian,
vegetarian
Chinatown Beef Noodle, Lavender Food Centre
This stall wasn't the old beef noodle that used to be in the food centre - this replaced that old beef noodle shop. Still they had put up some of those unreliable local media endorsements which meant that they've been around. Everything about the food was acceptably average tasting while the soup tasted thinner and much less savoury than I had been hoping for.
But I did like the fact that these guys offer fresh juicy limes that you can help yourself with. A lime each into the noodle or the bowl of beef noticeably changes the flavour profile and perks up the beef broth. I wouldn't mind eating this again as long as they have those limes going.
Digested Pages :
a local signature,
chinese
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