A couple of trendy words like 'nose to tail dining' and 'locavore' were associated with Quince (Sukhumvit soi 45, Bangkok, tel : +66 2 662 4478) which was opened last year. Yes, these were one of those people whom are concerned with the details and ethics of their ingredient sources, use every part of the animal possible, support local organic produce and love going seasonal that the menu constantly evolves. This place had apparently generated quite a bit of buzz for itself
So I'm just here to check out the food which was created from a mash of influences and started by an Australian chef, Jess Barnes who's an ex vegetarian and had actually left the restaurant earlier this year.
Amuse bouche was rather.....insipid. Cucumber, mayo and chives crostini. It tasted like how it looked.
The melon + curd starter they had was a nice interpretation of the more traditional Italian tomato, basil and buffalo Mozzarella salad. There was sweetness from the honeydew and tomatoes along with the tart from the Balsamic vinegar lightly cloaked in the flavours of olive oil and melting lime sorbet. And then salt and pepper. I liked this.
These lamb samosas were amazing. Served piping hot with juicy minced lamb that was full with the lamb-y flavours, each mouthful was a debate between tzatziki or no tzatziki. This was one warm starter that tasted wayyyy better than it looked. The influence here was clearly Middle Eastern.
The quail eggs were well, just quail eggs. Albeit ones that are deep fried with a slightly crispy skin sitting in a very deliciously milky sweet potato puree sprinkled with chorizo shreds. It was more puree than foam as the menu had described.
And next, unctuous rich and generous portions of bone marrow on more toast and capers parsley. I need not describe this further. The portions were pretty large and needless to say, we were marrowed down. Hahahaha....
Thankfully, we held back and only ordered one main which was a tomato and basil flavoured pasta. The crab meat was freshly sweet amidst all the other flavours, which apart from the salt and pepper, was a simple trinity of its own.
A filler side of polenta with shaven Parmesan cheese. There was too little cheese so we had to ask for more which then, did the job. Lovely filler.
This dessert was a special that's off the regular menu. It tasted addictively good. For most of us, it would register as something akin to wasabi, creamy and sweet; balanced off by the fruity tart of the jam.
Quince is located in soi 45 off Sukhumvit Road. So if you're strolling down from Phrom Phong BTS, just look out for Casa Pagoda from the main street and you'll be able to spot it just at the back.
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