Atout, Harding Road

My history with the food by Patrick Heuberger started back in the days of Au Petit Salut at Jalan Merah Saga. That might have been the pioneering of casual French cuisine on our shores followed by his subsequent venture, Le Bistrot Du Sommerlier. Before we knew it, he had started an off-the-beaten-track location at Casse Croûte for a short stint and then dove into charcuterie making at Huber's Butchery. I recalled that he successfully attempted to sell us some fruity Spanish olive oil then.

I don't know if this could be considered the coming back into a circle of sorts but today, Monsieur Heuberger is back into the restaurant/bistro business with Atout (40C Harding Road, tel : +65 6679 1800). Ironically located in the building where Au Petit Salut had been for some time. A rebirth spawning from the site of a legacy he had left behind.

Sidestepping further forewordplay, Atout was nice.

It's been noted that charcuterie is an interest and forte of the chef. So we got our selves some thinly sliced beef tongue which was salty and fatty and delicious. 

We had pink radishes with butter. Interesting pairing.

Bread which is chargeable here was in order (pun intended) because of the food we had. No better vehicle for those and their sourdough was good.

Followed up by Atout's rendition of boudin noir. A take that was mousse-like perfumed with onions and a crusty exterior. Not so different from the rendition at Le Bistrot du Sommerlier which could have been the way it was because of influence. Very nice with their delicious apple sauce.

This was a redemption of lobster bisque for us. Creamy and robust with the crustacean flavour, unlike the poorer rendition which we had very recently. This one even came with little chicken dumplings we liked like those that they make in Le Bistrot du Sommerlier.

The andouillette here tasted different from the ones we had at Casse Croûte. This one seemed fatter and a little less densely packed. The scent of the offal sausage was strong when it was served but the flavour was a lot better than the smell suggested. It was nicely spiced and paired pretty nicely with the sharp mustard on the side.

Their black forest gateau was nice. The liquor was sufficiently robust, cherries sufficiently intoxicating and the chocolate nicely sweet. Reminded me of the outstanding tiramisu from the defunct Angeleno. Stuttgart has a competent competitor now.

Un café marked the end of lunch.